Lockwiki - User contributions [en]

Kwikset Classic

2019-03-09T06:11:46Z

Raccoon: /* Principles of operation */ the seventh cut depth is used with master pins OR construction balls

=Kwikset Classic=

{{Lock model
|name=Kwikset Classic
|Img=
|maker=[[Kwikset]]
|lock_type=[[Cylinder]]
|lock_design=[[Pin-tumbler]]
|related=[[Kwikset SmartKey]]
|patent=
|years_produced=1950s - Present
}}

The '''Classic''' is a [[pin-tumbler]] lock made by [[Kwikset]]. It is one of the most common cylinders used in residential door locks in the United States. The KW1 keyway used by the Classic is extremely popular in North America, with many other companies providing interoperable locks and keys.

The Classic is slowly being phased out by the [[Kwikset SmartKey]] due to concerns over [[key bumping]].

__TOC__

== Principles of operation ==

:''See also: [[Pin-tumbler#Principles_of_Operation|Pin-Tumbler (Principles of Operation)]]''

The Classic is a traditional pin-tumbler that uses five pin stacks. To open the lock, all pin stacks must be aligned at the [[shear line]] to allow the [[plug]] to rotate. There are six key pin heights and seven key cut depths, the seventh only used when combined with [[Master keying|master pins]] or construction balls. The Classic has a [[MACS]] of 4. Many Classic cylinders come with [[construction keying]] dimples on the plug.

The Classic uses key pins that are slightly tapered on both ends. Classic cylinders do not require use of any [[security pin]]s, but often come with a couple spool drivers.

== Keying Specifications ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|- bgcolor="#e0e0e0"
|'''Cut''' || '''Spacing''' || '''Depth''' ||'''Key Pin''' ||'''Master''' ||'''Driver'''
|-
|1 || .247" || .329" || .172" || .023" || .180"
|-
|2 || .397" || .306" || .195" || .046" || .180"
|-
|3 || .547" || .283" || .218" || .069" || .180"
|-
|4 || .697" || .260" || .241" || .092" || .180"
|-
|5 || .847" || .237" || .264" || .115" || .180"
|-
|6 || .997" || .214" || .287" || .138" || .180"
|-
|7 || .191" || n/a || n/a || n/a || n/a
|}

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|- bgcolor="#e0e0e0"
| '''Key Blank''' || '''Plug Diameter''' || '''Shoulder to First Cut''' || '''Root to Root''' || '''Depth Increment''' || '''Cut Width''' || '''MACS'''
|-
| 1176, KW1 || ~.498" || .247" || .150" || .023" || .080" || 4
|}

== Disassembly instructions ==

The Classic can be disassembled with standard pin-tumbler disassembly. The design of the pin-chamber casing facilitates quick disassembly and full rekeying.

{{Pin-tumbler standard disassembly}}

==== Removing cylinders from Kwikset knobs ====

# Using the Cylinder Removing Tool, rotate the round spindle until the tab lines up with the bolt stems.<ref>[http://www.kwikset.com/Libraries/Literature/Rekeying_Manual.sflb.ashx Kwikset Rekeying Manual]</ref>
# Slide the tool under the spring housing behind the spindle and push to release the retainer. Pull out the spindle without rotating it.
# Slide the tool into the empty spindle chamber, angling it to bypass the cover at the top of the hole. Push the tool all the way in and apply pressure until the cylinder is forced out of the front of the knob.

== Vulnerabilities ==

The Classic may be vulnerable to one or more of the following:

* [[Lockpicking]]
* [[Bumping]]
* [[Impressioning]]
* [[Decoding]]

'''Notes'''
* Poor tolerances allow [[tryout keys]] to work.

== Gallery ==

<div align="center"><gallery>

</gallery></div>

== References ==
<references />

== See also ==
* [[Kwikset]]
* [[Pin-tumbler]]

[[Category:Kwikset|Classic]]
[[Category:Pin-tumbler locks]]

Kwikset Titan

2019-03-09T05:41:28Z

Raccoon: /* Principles of operation */ Some Kwikset locks do come with spool drivers.

=Kwikset Titan=

{{Lock model
|name=Kwikset Titan
|Img=File:Kwikset_Titan_cylinder.jpg
|maker=[[Kwikset]]
|lock_type=[[Cylinder]]
|lock_design=[[Pin-tumbler]]
|related=[[Kwikset SmartKey]] [[Kwikset Classic]]
|patent=
|years_produced=???? - Present
}}

The '''Titan''' is a [[pin-tumbler]] lock made by [[Kwikset]]. It is a modified version of the [[Kwikset Classic]] that uses six pins instead of five, and has a slightly different key to accommodate this. The KW10 keyway used by the Titan is nearly identical to the KW1 keyway; but it has an additional slot at the top, allowing for the insertion of the longer KW10 key.

The Titan is slowly being phased out(?) by the [[Kwikset SmartKey]] due to concerns over [[key bumping]].

__TOC__
 

== Principles of operation ==

:''See also: [[Pin-tumbler#Principles_of_Operation|Pin-Tumbler (Principles of Operation)]]''

The Titan is a traditional pin-tumbler that uses six pin stacks. To open the lock, all pin stacks must be aligned at the [[shear line]] to allow the [[plug]] to rotate. There are six key pin heights and seven key cut depths with the use of [[Master keying|master pins]]. The Titan has a [[MACS]] of 4. Many Classic cylinders come with [[construction keying]] dimples on the plug.

The Titan uses the same Classic key pins that are slightly tapered on both ends. Neither Classic nor Titan cylinders require the use of [[security pin]]s but often contain a couple of spool drivers.

== Keying Specifications ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|- bgcolor="#e0e0e0"
|'''Cut''' || '''Spacing''' || '''Depth''' ||'''Key Pin''' ||'''Master''' ||'''Driver'''
|-
|1 || .247" || .329" || .172" || .023" || .180"
|-
|2 || .397" || .306" || .195" || .046" || .180"
|-
|3 || .547" || .283" || .218" || .069" || .180"
|-
|4 || .697" || .260" || .241" || .092" || .180"
|-
|5 || .847" || .237" || .264" || .115" || .180"
|-
|6 || .997" || .214" || .287" || .138" || .180"
|-
|7 || .191" || n/a || n/a || n/a || n/a
|}

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|- bgcolor="#e0e0e0"
| '''Key Blank''' || '''Plug Diameter''' || '''Shoulder to First Cut''' || '''Root to Root''' || '''Depth Increment''' || '''Cut Width''' || '''MACS'''
|-
| 1176, KW10 || ~.498" || ~.090" || .150" || .023" || .080" || 4
|}

== Disassembly instructions ==

The Titan can be disassembled with standard pin-tumbler disassembly. The design of the pin-chamber casing facilitates quick disassembly and full rekeying.

{{Pin-tumbler standard disassembly}}

==== Removing cylinders from Kwikset knobs ====

# Using the Cylinder Removing Tool, rotate the round spindle until the tab lines up with the bolt stems.<ref>[http://www.kwikset.com/Libraries/Literature/Rekeying_Manual.sflb.ashx Kwikset Rekeying Manual]</ref>
# Slide the tool under the spring housing behind the spindle and push to release the retainer. Pull out the spindle without rotating it.
# Slide the tool into the empty spindle chamber, angling it to bypass the cover at the top of the hole. Push the tool all the way in and apply pressure until the cylinder is forced out of the front of the knob.

== Vulnerabilities ==

The Titan may be vulnerable to one or more of the following:

* [[Lockpicking]]
* [[Bumping]]
* [[Impressioning]]
* [[Decoding]]

'''Notes'''
* Though far less than on the classic, poor tolerances with the Titan allow [[tryout keys]] to work.

== Gallery ==

<div align="center"><gallery>

</gallery></div>

== References ==
<references />

== See also ==
* [[Kwikset]]
* [[Pin-tumbler]]

[[Category:Kwikset|Titan]]
[[Category:Pin-tumbler locks]]

Kwikset Classic

2019-03-09T05:39:24Z

Raccoon: /* Principles of operation */ Some Kwikset locks do come with spool drivers.

=Kwikset Classic=

{{Lock model
|name=Kwikset Classic
|Img=
|maker=[[Kwikset]]
|lock_type=[[Cylinder]]
|lock_design=[[Pin-tumbler]]
|related=[[Kwikset SmartKey]]
|patent=
|years_produced=1950s - Present
}}

The '''Classic''' is a [[pin-tumbler]] lock made by [[Kwikset]]. It is one of the most common cylinders used in residential door locks in the United States. The KW1 keyway used by the Classic is extremely popular in North America, with many other companies providing interoperable locks and keys.

The Classic is slowly being phased out by the [[Kwikset SmartKey]] due to concerns over [[key bumping]].

__TOC__

== Principles of operation ==

:''See also: [[Pin-tumbler#Principles_of_Operation|Pin-Tumbler (Principles of Operation)]]''

The Classic is a traditional pin-tumbler that uses five pin stacks. To open the lock, all pin stacks must be aligned at the [[shear line]] to allow the [[plug]] to rotate. There are six key pin heights and seven key cut depths with the use of [[Master keying|master pins]]. The Classic has a [[MACS]] of 4. Many Classic cylinders come with [[construction keying]] dimples on the plug.

The Classic uses key pins that are slightly tapered on both ends. Classic cylinders do not require use of any [[security pin]]s, but often come with a couple spool drivers.

== Keying Specifications ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|- bgcolor="#e0e0e0"
|'''Cut''' || '''Spacing''' || '''Depth''' ||'''Key Pin''' ||'''Master''' ||'''Driver'''
|-
|1 || .247" || .329" || .172" || .023" || .180"
|-
|2 || .397" || .306" || .195" || .046" || .180"
|-
|3 || .547" || .283" || .218" || .069" || .180"
|-
|4 || .697" || .260" || .241" || .092" || .180"
|-
|5 || .847" || .237" || .264" || .115" || .180"
|-
|6 || .997" || .214" || .287" || .138" || .180"
|-
|7 || .191" || n/a || n/a || n/a || n/a
|}

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|- bgcolor="#e0e0e0"
| '''Key Blank''' || '''Plug Diameter''' || '''Shoulder to First Cut''' || '''Root to Root''' || '''Depth Increment''' || '''Cut Width''' || '''MACS'''
|-
| 1176, KW1 || ~.498" || .247" || .150" || .023" || .080" || 4
|}

== Disassembly instructions ==

The Classic can be disassembled with standard pin-tumbler disassembly. The design of the pin-chamber casing facilitates quick disassembly and full rekeying.

{{Pin-tumbler standard disassembly}}

==== Removing cylinders from Kwikset knobs ====

# Using the Cylinder Removing Tool, rotate the round spindle until the tab lines up with the bolt stems.<ref>[http://www.kwikset.com/Libraries/Literature/Rekeying_Manual.sflb.ashx Kwikset Rekeying Manual]</ref>
# Slide the tool under the spring housing behind the spindle and push to release the retainer. Pull out the spindle without rotating it.
# Slide the tool into the empty spindle chamber, angling it to bypass the cover at the top of the hole. Push the tool all the way in and apply pressure until the cylinder is forced out of the front of the knob.

== Vulnerabilities ==

The Classic may be vulnerable to one or more of the following:

* [[Lockpicking]]
* [[Bumping]]
* [[Impressioning]]
* [[Decoding]]

'''Notes'''
* Poor tolerances allow [[tryout keys]] to work.

== Gallery ==

<div align="center"><gallery>

</gallery></div>

== References ==
<references />

== See also ==
* [[Kwikset]]
* [[Pin-tumbler]]

[[Category:Kwikset|Classic]]
[[Category:Pin-tumbler locks]]

Glossary

2018-08-23T12:16:03Z

Raccoon: m

=Glossary=

The LockWiki glossary of terms and abbreviations found in locksmithing, lockpicking, locksport and the lock and safe security industry in general.





{{anchor|lockpick}} '''''[[lockpick]]''''' - A tool or implement used to manipulate the [[#pin|pins]], [[#lever|levers]] or [[#wafer|wafers]] inside a lock without the key.

Glossary

2018-08-23T11:48:57Z

Raccoon: m

Glossary

2018-08-23T11:48:21Z

Raccoon: Created Glossary page.

Template:Anchor/doc

2018-08-23T11:17:20Z

Raccoon: Created template:anchor documentation

{{documentation subpage}}
This template manually adds one or more HTML anchors (i.e., link targets) to a page. This allows incoming links to target locations on the page other than section headings.

{{tlx|anchor|target}}
{{tlx|anchor|target|Target|TARGET}}

This allows links of the form <code><nowiki>[[#target]]</nowiki></code> to be used on the same page and links of the form <code><nowiki>[[Page title#target]]</nowiki></code> to be used on a different page (assuming "Page title" is the title of the page this template is used on).

The second example usage shows how multiple anchors can be provided within a single template call. It also illustrates how capitalization differences are significant in HTML anchor names; for this reason, if you suspect that incoming links will try to use targets with different capitalization (or punctuation, whitespace, etc.), then all allowed forms must be explicitly listed in the template call.

Up to 10 targets can be specified in a single template call, otherwise an error message will be displayed (this message may break the page layout) and the current page will be listed in the error-tracking [{{fullurl:Category:Template:Anchor/too many anchors}} Category:Template:Anchor/too many anchors] (this maintenance category should remain empty and does not need to be created). If more anchors are are needed, a second template call can immediately follow the first one.

<includeonly>
[[Category:Templates]]
</includeonly>

Template:Anchor

2018-08-23T11:16:56Z

Raccoon: Created {anchor:target} template.

{{#if:{{{1|<noinclude>1</noinclude>}}}|<ins id="{{{1|<noinclude>test-anchor</noinclude>}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{2|}}}|<ins id="{{{2|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{3|}}}|<ins id="{{{3|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{4|}}}|<ins id="{{{4|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{5|}}}|<ins id="{{{5|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{6|}}}|<ins id="{{{6|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{7|}}}|<ins id="{{{7|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{8|}}}|<ins id="{{{8|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{9|}}}|<ins id="{{{9|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{10|}}}|<ins id="{{{10|}}}"></ins>}}{{#if:{{{11|}}}|[[Template:Anchor]]: Too many anchors; maximum is 10.[[Category:Template:Anchor/too many anchors]]}}<noinclude>{{documentation}}</noinclude>

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2018-08-23T10:50:16Z

Raccoon: Added 'All pages' to Navigation

Lockwiki:Requested articles

2010-04-05T04:15:29Z

Raccoon:

'''Requesting Articles'''

This is LockWiki's page for requesting articles. If you want to request a new article or find something to write about, this is the right place to start.

To see a complete list of all pages on LockWiki looking for an author, '''[[Special:WantedPages|click here]]'''.

The most important rule is to ignore all rules. Just write about a subject and let other people worry about cleaning it up. Lets go!

==Topics of Interest==

===Lock Manufacturers & Brands===

* [[Kwikset]]
* [[Schlage]]
* [[Sargent]]
* [[Yale]]

===Lockpick Tool Makers & Suppliers===

* [[Southern Specialties]]
* [[Southern Ordinance]] [[SouthOrd]]
* [[Peterson Tools]]

===Lockpicking in the Media===

* [[Bump key#Media]]
* [[Wallstreet Journal article Digital_Blue]]
* [[Lockpicking on TV]]
* [[Lockpicking in games]]

===Locksport===

* [[TOOOL]]
* [[L.I]]
* [[HOPE]]
* [[DEFCON]]

===Product Reviews===

* [[SouthOrd/Product name here]]
* [[Schlage/Product name here]]

===Create your own topic here===

* [[Example]]

Lockwiki:Requested articles

2010-04-04T19:52:53Z

Raccoon:

'''Requesting Articles'''

This is LockWiki's page for requesting articles. If you want to request a new article or find something to write about, this is the right place to start.

To see a complete list of all pages on LockWiki looking for an author, '''[[Special:WantedPages|click here]]'''.

==Topics of Interest==

===Lock Manufacturers & Brands===

* [[Kwikset]]
* [[Schlage]]
* [[Sargent]]
* [[Yale]]

===Lockpick Tool Makers & Suppliers===

* [[Southern Specialties]]
* [[Southern Ordinance]] [[SouthOrd]]
* [[Peterson Tools]]

===Lockpicking in the Media===

* [[Bump key#Media]]
* [[Wallstreet Journal article Digital_Blue]]
* [[Lockpicking on TV]]
* [[Lockpicking in games]]

===Locksport===

* [[TOOOL]]
* [[LSI]]
* [[HOPE]]
* [[DEFCON]]

===Product Reviews===

* [[SouthOrd/Product name here]]
* [[Schlage/Product name here]]

===Create your own topic here===

* [[Example]]

Lockwiki:Requested articles

2010-04-04T10:19:35Z

Raccoon:

'''Requesting Articles'''

This is LockWiki's page for requesting articles. If you want to request a new article or find something to write about, this is the right place to start.

To see a complete list of all pages on LockWiki looking for an author, '''[[Special:WantedPages|click here]]'''.

==Topics of Interest==

===Lock Manufacturers & Brands===

* [[Kwikset]]
* [[Schlage]]
* [[Sargent]]
* [[Yale]]

===Lockpick Tool Makers & Suppliers===

* [[Southern Specialties]]
* [[Southern Ordinance]] [[SouthOrd]]
* [[Peterson Tools]]

===Lockpicking in the Media===

* [[Bump key#Media]]
* [[Wallstreet Journal article Digital_Blue]]
* [[Lockpicking on TV]]
* [[Lockpicking in games]]

===Locksport===

* [[TOOOL]]
* [[LSI]]
* [[HOPE]]
* [[DEFCON]]

===Create your own topic here===

* [[Example]]

Lockwiki:Requested articles

2010-04-04T10:17:35Z

Raccoon: do it!

'''Requesting Articles'''

This is LockWiki's page for requesting articles. If you want to request a new article or find something to write about, this is the right place to start.

To see a complete list of all pages on LockWiki looking for an author, [[Special:WantedPages|click here]].

==Topics of Interest==

===Lock Manufacturers & Brands===

* [[Kwikset]]
* [[Schlage]]
* [[Sargent]]
* [[Yale]]

===Lockpick Tool Makers & Suppliers===

* [[Southern Specialties]]
* [[Southern Ordinance]] [[SouthOrd]]
* [[Peterson Tools]]

===Lockpicking in the Media===

* [[Bump key#Media]]
* [[Wallstreet Journal article Digital_Blue]]
* [[Lockpicking on TV]]
* [[Lockpicking in games]]

===Locksport===

* [[TOOOL]]
* [[LSI]]
* [[HOPE]]
* [[DEFCON]]

===Create your own topic here===

* [[Example]]

MIT Guide to Lock Picking

2010-04-04T04:29:58Z

Raccoon: Protected "MIT Guide to Lock Picking": Page undergoing major changes. ([edit=sysop] (indefinite) [move=sysop] (indefinite))

<big>'''MIT Guide to Lock Picking''' 
Ted the Tool 
September 1, 1991</big>

<big>'''Distribution''' 
Copyright 1987, 1991 Theodore T. Tool. All rights reserved. 
Permission to reproduce this document on a non-profit basis is granted provided that 
this copyright and distribution notice is included in full. 
The information in this booklet is provided for educational purposes only. 
August 1991 revision.</big>

==It's Easy==
The big secret of lock picking is that it's easy. Anyone can learn how to pick locks.

The theory of lock picking is the theory of exploiting mechanical defects. There are a
few basic concepts and definitions but the bulk of the material consists of tricks for opening
locks with particular defects or characteristics. The organization of this manual reflects this
structure. The first few chapters present the vocabulary and basic information about locks
and lock picking. There is no way to learn lock picking without practicing, so one chapter
presents a set of carefully chosen exercises that will help you learn the skills of lock picking.
The document ends with a catalog of the mechanical traits and defects found in locks and
the techniques used to recognize and exploit them. The first appendix describes how to make
lock picking tools. The other appendix presents some of the legal issues of lock picking.

The exercises are important. The only way to learn how to recognize and exploit the
defects in a lock is to practice. This means practicing many times on the same lock as well
as practicing on many different locks. Anyone can learn how to open desk and filing cabinet
locks, but the ability to open most locks in under thirty seconds is a skill that requires
practice.

Before getting into the details of locks and picking, it is worth pointing out that lock
picking is just one way to bypass a lock, though it does cause less damage than brute force
techniques. In fact, it may be easier to bypass the bolt mechanism than to bypass the lock.
It may also be easier to bypass some other part of the door or even avoid the door entirely.
Remember: There is always another way, usually a better one.

==How a Key Opens a Lock==
This chapter presents the basic workings of pin tumbler locks, and the vocabulary used in the
rest of this booklet. The terms used to describe locks and lock parts vary from manufacture
to manufacture and from city to city, so even if you already understand the basic workings
of locks, you should look at figure 2.1 for the vocabulary.

Knowing how a lock works when it is opened by a key is only part of what you need to
know. You also need to know how a lock responds to picking. Chapters 3 and 5 present
models which will help you understand a lock's response to picking.

Figure 2.1 introduces the vocabulary of real locks. The key is inserted into the ''keyway''
of the ''plug''. The protrusions on the side of the keyway are called ''wards''. Wards restrict the
set of keys that can be inserted into the plug. The plug is a cylinder which can rotate when
the proper key is fully inserted. The non-rotating part of the lock is called the ''hull''. The
first pin touched by the key is called pin one. The remaining pins are numbered increasingly
toward the rear of the lock.

The proper key lifts each pin pair until the gap between the ''key pin'' and the ''driver pin''
reaches the ''sheer line''. When all the pins are in this position, the plug can rotate and the
lock can be opened. An incorrect key will leave some of the pins protruding between the
hull and the plug, and these pins will prevent the plug from rotating.

Figure 2.1: Workings of pin tumbler locks

==The Flatland Model==
In order to become good at picking locks, you will need a detailed understanding of how
locks works and what happens as it is picked. This document uses two models to help you
understand the behavior of locks. This chapter presents a model that highlights interactions
between pin positions. Chapter 4 uses this model to explain how picking works. Chapter 9
will use this model to explain complicated mechanical defects.

The "flatland" model of a lock is shown in Figure 3.1. This is not a cross section of a
real lock. It is a cross section of a very simple kind of lock. The purpose of this lock is to
keep two plates of metal from sliding over each other unless the proper key is present. The
lock is constructed by placing the two plates over each other and drilling holes which pass
through both plates. The figure shows a two hole lock. Two pins are placed in each hole
such that the gap between the pins does not line up with the gap between the plates. The
bottom pin is called the ''key pin'' because it touches the key. The top pin is called the ''driver
pin''. Often the driver and key pins are just called the driver and the pin. A protrusion on
the underside of the bottom plate keeps the pins from falling out, and a spring above the
top plate pushes down on the driver pin.

If the key is absent, the plates cannot slide over each other because the driver pins pass
through both plates. The correct key lifts the pin pairs to align the gap between the pins
with the gap between the plates. See Figure 3.3. That is, the key lifts the key pin until its
top reaches the lock's sheer line. In this configuration, the plates can slide past each other.
Figure 3.3 also illustrates one of the important features of real locks. There is always a
sliding allowance. That is, any parts which slide past each other must be separated by a
gap. The gap between the top and bottom plates allows a range of keys to open the lock.
Notice that the right key pin in Figure 3.3 is not raised as high as the left pin, yet the lock
will still open.

Figure 3.1: Flatland model of a lock

Figure 3.2: (a) Flatland key raises pins

Figure 3.3: (b) Proper key allows plates to slide

==Basic Picking & The Binding Defect==
The flatland model highlights the basic defect that enables lock picking to work. This defect
makes it possible to open a lock by lifting the pins one at a time, and thus you don't need a
key to lift all the pins at the same time. Figure 4.3 shows how the pins of a lock can be set
one at a time. The first step of the procedure is to apply a sheer force to the lock by pushing
on the bottom plate. This force causes one or more of the pins to be scissored between the
top and bottom plate. The most common defect in a lock is that only one pin will bind.
Figure 4.3a shows the left pin binding. Even though a pin is binding, it can be pushed up
with a picking tool, see Figure 4.3b. When the top of the key pin reaches the sheer line,
the bottom plate will slide slightly. If the pick is removed, the driver pin will be held up
by the overlapping bottom plate, and the key pin will drop down to its initial position, see
Figure 4.3c. The slight movement of the bottom plate causes a new pin to bind. The same
procedure can be used to set the new pin.

Thus, the procedure for ''one pin at a time picking'' a lock is to apply a sheer force, find
the pin which is binding the most, and push it up. When the top of the key pin reaches the
sheer line, the moving portion of the lock will give slightly, and driver pin will be trapped
above the sheer line. This is called ''setting'' a pin.

Chapter 9 discusses the different defects that cause pins to bind one at a time.

# Apply a sheer force.
# Find the pin that is binding the most.
# Push that pin up until you feel it set at the sheer line.
# Go to step 2.

Table 4.1: Figure 5: Picking a lock one pin at a time.

Figure 4.1: (a) Sheer force causes driver to bind

Figure 4.2: (b) Pick lifts the binding pin

Figure 4.3: (c) Left driver sets and right driver binds

==The Pin Column Model==
The flatland model of locks can explain effects that involve more than one pin, but a different
model is needed to explain the detailed behavior of a single pin. See Figure 5.1. The pin-
column model highlights the relationship between the torque applied and the amount of force
needed to lift each pin. It is essential that you understand this relationship.

In order to understand the "feel" of lock picking you need to know how the movement
of a pin is effect by the torque applied by your torque wrench (tensioner) and the pressure
applied by your pick. A good way to represent this understanding is a graph that shows the
minimum pressure needed to move a pin as a function of how far the pin has been displaced
from its initial position. The remainder of this chapter will derive that force graph from the
pin-column model.

Figure 5.2 shows a single pin position after torque has been applied to the plug. The
forces acting of the driver pin are the friction from the sides, the spring contact force from
above, and the contact force from the key pin below. The amount of pressure you apply to
the pick determines the contact force from below.

The spring force increases as the pins are pushed into the hull, but the increase is slight,
so we will assume that the spring force is constant over the range of displacements we
are interested in. The pins will not move unless you apply enough pressure to overcome
the spring force. The binding friction is proportional to how hard the driver pin is being
scissored between the plug and the hull, which in this case is proportional to the torque. The
more torque you apply to the plug, the harder it will be to move the pins. To make a pin
move, you need to apply a pressure that is greater than the sum of the spring and friction
forces.

When the bottom of the driver pin reaches the sheer line, the situation suddenly changes.
See Figure 5.3. The friction binding force drops to zero and the plug rotates slightly (until
some other pin binds). Now the only resistance to motion is the spring force. After the
top of the key pin crosses the gap between the plug and the hull, a new contact force arises
from the key pin striking the hull. This force can be quite large, and it causes a peak in the
amount of pressure needed to move a pin.

If the pins are pushed further into the hull, the key pin acquires a binding fiction like the
driver pin had in the initial situation. See Figure 5.4. Thus, the amount of pressure needed

Figure 5.1: The pin-column model
to move the pins before and after the sheer line is about the same. Increasing the torque
increases the required pressure. At the sheer line, the pressure increases dramatically due to
the key pin hitting the hull. This analysis is summarized graphically in figure 5.5.

Figure 5.2: Binding in the pin-column model

Figure 5.3: Pins at the sheer line

Figure 5.4: Key pin enters hull

Figure 5.5: Pressure required to move pins

==Basic Scrubbing==
At home you can take your time picking a lock, but in the field, speed is always essential.
This chapter presents a lock picking technique called ''scrubbing'' that can quickly open most
locks.

The slow step in basic picking (chapter 4) is locating the pin which is binding the most.
The force diagram (Figure 5.5) developed in chapter 5 suggests a fast way to select the correct
pin to lift. Assume that all the pins could be characterized by the same force diagram. That
is, assume that they all bind at once and that they all encounter the same friction. Now
consider the effect of running the pick over all the pins with a pressure that is great enough
to overcome the spring and friction forces but not great enough to overcome the collision
force of the key pin hitting the hull. Any pressure that is above the flat portion of the force
graph and below the top of the peak will work. As the pick passes over a pin, the pin will
rise until it hits the hull, but it will not enter the hull. See Figure 5.3. The collision force at
the sheer line resists the pressure of the pick, so the pick rides over the pin without pressing
it into the hull. If the proper torque is being applied, the plug will rotate slightly. As the
pick leaves the pin, the key pin will fall back to its initial position, but the driver pin will
catch on the edge of the plug and stay above the sheer line. See figure 6.1. In theory one
stroke of the pick over the pins will cause the lock to open.

In practice, at most one or two pins will set during a single stroke of the pick, so several
strokes are necessary. Basically, you use the pick to scrub back and forth over the pins while
you adjust the amount of torque on the plug. The exercises in chapter 8 will teach you how
to choose the correct torque and pressure.

You will find that the pins of a lock tend to set in a particular order. Many factors effect
this order (see chapter 9), but the primary cause is a misalignment between the center axis
of the plug and the axis on which the holes were drilled. See figure 6.2. If the axis of the
pin holes is skewed from the center line of the plug, then the pins will set from back to front
if the plug is turned one way, and from front to back if the plug is turned the other way.
Many locks have this defect.

Scrubbing is fast because you don't need to pay attention to individual pins. You only
need to find the correct torque and pressure. Figure 6.1 summarizes the steps of picking a
lock by scrubbing. The exercises will teach you how to recognize when a pin is set and how
to apply the correct forces. If a lock doesn't open quickly, then it probably has one of the
characteristics described in chapter 9 and you will have to concentrate on individual pins.

Figure 6.1: Driver pin catches on plug

Figure 6.2: Alignment of plug holes

# Insert the pick and torque wrench. Without applying any torque pull the pick out to get a feel for the stiffness of the lock's springs.
# Apply a light torque. Insert the pick without touching the pins. As you pull the pick out, apply pressure to the pins. The pressure should be slightly larger than the minimum necessary to overcome the spring force.
# Gradually increase the torque with each stroke of the pick until pins begin to set.
# Keeping the torque fixed, scrub back and forth over the pins that have not set. If additional pins do not set, release the torque and start over with the torque found in the last step.
# Once the majority of the pins have been set, increase the torque and scrub the pins with a slightly larger pressure. This will set any pins which have set low due to beveled edges, etc.

Table 6.1: Figure 13: Basic scrubbing.

==Advanced Lock Picking==
Simple lock picking is a trade that anyone can learn. However, advanced lock picking is a craft
that requires mechanical sensitivity, physical dexterity, visual concentration and analytic
thinking. If you strive to excel at lock picking, you will grow in many ways.

===Mechanical Skills===
Learning how to pull the pick over the pins is surprisingly difficult. The problem is that the
mechanical skills you learned early in life involved maintaining a fixed position or fixed path
for your hands independent of the amount of force required. In lock picking, you must learn
how to apply a fixed force independent of the position of your hand. As you pull the pick
out of the lock you want to apply a fixed pressure on the pins. The pick should bounce up
and down in the keyway according to the resistance offered by each pin.

To pick a lock you need feedback about the effects of your manipulations. To get the
feedback, you must train yourself to be sensitive to the sound and feel of the pick passing
over the pins. This is a mechanical skill that can only be learned with practice. The exercises
will help you recognize the important information coming from your fingers.

===Zen and the Art of Lock Picking===
In order to excel at lock picking, you must train yourself to have a visually reconstructive
imagination. The idea is to use information from all your senses to build a picture of what
is happening inside the lock as you pick it. Basically, you want to project your senses into
the lock to receive a full picture of how it is responding to your manipulations. Once you
have learned how to build this picture, it is easy to choose manipulations that will open the
lock.

All your senses provide information about the lock. Touch and sound provide the most
information, but the other senses can reveal critical information. For example, your nose
can tell you whether a lock has been lubricated recently. As a beginner, you will need to use
your eyes for hand-eye coordination, but as you improve you will find it unnecessary to look
at the lock. In fact, it is better to ignore your eyes and use your sight to build an image of
the lock based on the information you receive from your fingers and ears.

The goal of this mental skill is to acquire a relaxed concentration on the lock. Don't
force the concentration. Try to ignore the sensations and thoughts that are not related to
the lock. Don't try to focus on the lock.

===Analytic Thinking===
Each lock has its own special characteristics which make picking harder or easier. If you
learn to recognize and exploit the "personality traits" of locks, picking will go much faster.
Basically, you want to analyze the feedback you get from a lock to diagnose its personality
traits and then use your experience to decide on an approach to open the lock. Chapter 9
discusses a large number of common traits and ways to exploit or overcome them.

People underestimate the analytic skills involved in lock picking. They think that the
picking tool opens the lock. To them the torque wrench is a passive tool that just puts the
lock under the desired stress. Let me propose another way to view the situation. The pick
is just running over the pins to get information about the lock. Based on an analysis that
information the torque is adjusted to make the pins set at the sheer line. It's the torque
wrench that opens the lock.

Varying the torque as the pick moves in and out of the keyway is a general trick that can
be used to get around several picking problems. For example, if the middle pins are set, but
the end pins are not, you can increase the torque as the pick moves over the middle pins.
This will reduce the chances of disturbing the correctly set pins. If some pin doesn't seem to
lift up far enough as the pick passes over it, then try reducing the torque on the next pass.

The skill of adjusting the torque while the pick is moving requires careful coordination
between your hands, but as you become better at visualizing the process of picking a lock,
you will become better at this important skill.

==Exercises==
This chapter presents a series of exercises that will help you learn the basic skill of lock
picking. Some exercises teach a single skill, while others stress the coordination of skills.

When you do these exercises, focus on the skills, not on opening the lock. If you focus
on opening the lock, you will get frustrated and your mind will stop learning. The goal of
each exercise is to learn something about the particular lock you are holding and something
about yourself. If a lock happens to open, focus on the memory of what you were doing and
what you felt just before it opened.

These exercises should be practiced in short sessions. After about thirty minutes you
will find that your fingers become sore and your mind looses its ability to achieve relaxed
concentration.

===Exercise 1: Bouncing the pick===
This exercise helps you learn the skill of applying a fixed pressure with the pick independent
of how the pick moves up and down in the lock. Basically you want to learn how to let the
pick bounce up and down according to the resistance offered by each pin.

How you hold the pick makes a difference on how easy it is to apply a fixed pressure.
You want to hold it in such a way that the pressure comes from your fingers or your wrist.
Your elbow and shoulder do not have the dexterity required to pick locks. While you are
scrubbing a lock notice which of your joints are fixed, and which are allowed to move. The
moving joints are providing the pressure.

One way to hold a pick is to use two fingers to provide a pivot point while another finger
levers the pick to provide the pressure. Which fingers you use is a matter of personal choice.
Another way to hold the pick is like holding a pencil. With this method, your wrist provides
the pressure. If your wrist is providing the pressure, your shoulder and elbow should provide
the force to move the pick in and out of the lock. Do not use your wrist to both move the
pick and apply pressure.

A good way to get used to the feel of the pick bouncing up and down in the keyway is to
try scrubbing over the pins of an open lock. The pins cannot be pushed down, so the pick
must adjust to the heights of the pins. Try to feel the pins rattle as the pick moves over
them. If you move the pick quickly, you can hear the rattle. This same rattling feel will help
you recognize when a pin is set correctly. If a pin appears to be set but it doesn't rattle,
then it is false set. False set pins can be fixed by pushing them down farther, or by releasing
torque and letting them pop back to their initial position.

One last word of advice. Focus on the tip of the pick. Don't think about how you are
moving the handle; think about how you are moving the tip of the pick.

===Exercise 2: Picking pressure===
This exercise will teach you the range of pressures you will need to apply with a pick. When
you are starting, just apply pressure when you are drawing the pick out of the lock. Once
you have mastered that, try applying pressure when the pick is moving inward.

With the flat side of your pick, push down on the first pin of a lock. Don't apply any
torque to the lock. The amount of pressure you are applying should be just enough to
overcome the spring force. This force gives you an idea of minimum pressure you will apply
with a pick.

The spring force increases as you push the pin down. See if you can feel this increase.

Now see how it feels to push down the other pins as you pull the pick out of the lock.
Start out with both the pick and torque wrench in the lock, but don't apply any torque. As
you draw the pick out of the lock, apply enough pressure to push each pin all the way down.

The pins should spring back as the pick goes past them. Notice the sound that the pins
make as they spring back. Notice the popping feel as a pick goes past each pin. Notice the
springy feel as the pick pushes down on each new pin.

To help you focus on these sensations, try counting the number of pins in the lock. Door
locks at MIT have seven pins, padlocks usually have four.

To get an idea of the maximum pressure, use the flat side of your pick to push down all
the pins in the lock. Sometimes you will need to apply this much pressure to a single pin.
If you encounter a new kind of lock, perform this exercise to determine the stiffness of its
springs.

===Exercise 3: Picking Torque===
This exercise will teach you the range of torque you will need to apply to a lock. It demon-
strates the interaction between torque and pressure which was describe in chapter 5.

The minimum torque you will use is just enough to overcome the fiction of rotating the
plug in the hull. Use your torque wrench to rotate the plug until it stops. Notice how much
torque is needed to move the plug before the pins bind. This force can be quite high for
locks that have been left out in the rain. The minimum torque for padlocks includes the
force of a spring that is attached between the plug and the shackle bolt.

To get a feel for the maximum value of torque, use the flat side of the pick to push all
the pins down, and try applying enough torque to make the pins stay down after the pick is
removed. If your torque wrench has a twist in it, you may not be able to hold down more
than a few pins.

If you use too much torque and too much pressure you can get into a situation like the
one you just created. The key pins are pushed too far into the hull and the torque is suffcient
to hold them there.

The range of picking torque can be found by gradually increasing the torque while scrub-
bing the pins with the pick. Some of the pins will become harder to push down. Gradually
increase the torque until some of the pins set. These pins will loose their springiness. Keep-
ing the torque fixed, use the pick to scrub the pins a few times to see if other pins will
set.

The most common mistake of beginners is to use too much torque. Use this exercise to
find the minimum torque required to pick the lock.

===Exercise 4: Identifying Set Pins===
While you are picking a lock, try to identify which pins are set. You can tell a pin is set
because it will have a slight give. That is, the pin can be pushed down a short distance
with a light pressure, but it becomes hard to move after that distance (see chapter 6 for an
explanation). When you remove the light pressure, the pin springs back up slightly. Set pins
also rattle if you flick them with the pick. Try listening for that sound.

Run the pick over the pins and try to decide whether the set pins are in the front or back
of the lock (or both). Try identifying exactly which pins are set. Remember that pin one is
the frontmost pin (i.e., the pin that a key touches first). The most important skill of lock
picking is the ability to recognize correctly set pins. This exercise will teach you that skill.

Try repeating this exercise with the plug turning in the other direction. If the front pins
set when the plug is turned one way, the back pins will set when the plug is turned the other
way. See Figure 6.2 for an explanation.

One way to verify how many pins are set is to release the torque, and count the clicks as
the pins snap back to their initial position. Try this. Try to notice the difference in sound
between the snap of a single pin and the snap of two pins at once. A pin that has been false
set will also make a snapping sound.

Try this exercise with different amounts of torque and pressure. You should notice that
a larger torque requires a larger pressure to make pins set correctly. If the pressure is too
high, the pins will be jammed into the hull and stay there.

===Exercise 5: Projection===
As you are doing the exercises try building a picture in your mind of what is going on. The
picture does not have to be visual, it could be a rough understanding of which pins are set
and how much resistance you are encountering from each pin. One way to foster this picture
building is to try to remember your sensations and beliefs about a lock just before it opened.
When a lock opens, don't think "that's over", think "what happened".

This exercise requires a lock that you find easy to pick. It will help you refine the visual
skills you need to master lock picking. Pick the lock, and try to remember how the process
felt. Rehearse in your mind how everything feels when the lock is picked properly. Basically,
you want to create a movie that records the process of picking the lock. Visualize the
motion of your muscles as they apply the correct pressure and torque, and feel the resistance
encountered by the pick. Now pick the lock again trying to match your actions to the movie.

By repeating this exercise, you are learning how to formulate detailed commands for your
muscles and how to interpret feedback from your senses. The mental rehearsal teaches you
how to build a visual understanding of the lock and how to recognize the major steps of
picking it.

==Recognizing and Exploiting Personality Traits==
Real locks have a wide range of mechanical features and defects that help and hinder lock
picking. If a lock doesn't respond to scrubbing, then it probably has one of the traits
discussed in this chapter. To open the lock, you must diagnose the trait and apply the
recommended technique. The exercises will help you develop the mechanical sensitivity and
dexterity necessary to recognize and exploit the different traits.

===Which Way To Turn===
It can be very frustrating to spend a long time picking a lock and then discover that you
turned the plug the wrong way. If you turn a plug the wrong way it will rotate freely until it
hits a stop, or until it rotates 180 degrees and the drivers enter the keyway (see section 9.11).
Section 9.11 also explains how to turn the plug more than 180 degrees if that is necessary
to fully retract the bolt. When the plug is turned in the correct direction, you should feel
an extra resistance when the plug cam engages the bolt spring.

The direction to turn the plug depends on the bolt mechanism, not on the lock, but here
are some general rules. Cheap padlocks will open if the plug is turned in either direction, so
you can chose the direction which is best for the torque wrench. All padlocks made by the
Master company can be opened in either direction. Padlocks made by Yale will only open if
the plug is turned clockwise. The double plug Yale cylinder locks generally open by turning
the bottom of the keyway (i.e., the flat edge of the key) away from the nearest doorframe.
Single plug cylinder locks also follow this rule. See Figure 9.1. Locks built into the doorknob
usually open clockwise. Desk and filing cabinet locks also tend to open clockwise.

When you encounter a new kind of lock mechanism, try turning the plug in both direc-
tions. In the correct direction, the plug will be stopped by the pins, so the stop will feel
mushy when you use heavy torque. In the wrong direction the plug will be stopped by a
metal tab, so the stop will feel solid.

Figure 9.1: Direction to turn plug

===How Far to Turn===
The companion question to which way to turn a lock is how far to turn it. Desk and filing
cabinet locks generally open with less than a quarter turn (90 degrees) of the plug. When
opening a desk lock try to avoid having the plug lock in the open position. Locks built into
doorknobs also tend to open with less than a quarter turn. Locks which are separate from
the doorknob tend to require a half turn to open. Deadbolt lock mechanisms can require
almost a full turn to open.

Turning a lock more than 180 degrees is a difficult because the drivers enter the bottom
of the keyway. See section 9.11.

===Gravity===
Picking a lock that has the springs at the top is different than picking one with the springs
at the bottom. It should be obvious how to tell the two apart. The nice feature of a lock
with the springs at the bottom is that gravity holds the key pins down once they set. With
the set pins out of the way, it is easy to find and manipulate the remaining unset pins. It is
also straight forward to test for the slight give of a correctly set pin. When the springs are
on top, gravity will pull the key pins down after the driver pin catches at the sheer line. In
this case, you can identify the set pins by noticing that the key pin is easy to lift and that it
does not feel springy. Set pins also rattle as you draw the pick over them because they are
not being pushed down by the driver pin.

===Pins Not Setting===
If you scrub a lock and pins are not setting even when you vary the torque, then some pin
has false set and it is keeping the rest of the pins from setting. Consider a lock whose pins
prefer to set from back to front. If the backmost pin false sets high or low (see Figure 9.2),
then the plug cannot rotate enough to allow the other pins to bind. It is hard to recognize
that a back pin has false set because the springiness of the front pins makes it hard to sense
the small give of a correctly set back pin. The main symptom of this situation is that the
other pins will not set unless a very large torque is applied.

When you encounter this situation, release the torque and start over by concentrating
on the back pins. Try a light torque and moderate pressure, or heavy torque and heavy
pressure. Try to feel for the click that happens when a pin reaches the sheer line and the
plug rotates slightly. The click will be easier to feel if you use a stiff torque wrench.

===Elastic Deformation===
The interesting events of lock picking happen over distances measured in thousandths of an
inch. Over such short distances, metals behave like springs. Very little force is necessary
to deflect a piece metal over those distances, and when the force is removed, the metal will
spring back to its original position.

Deformation can be used to your advantage if you want to force several pins to bind at
once. For example, picking a lock with pins that prefer to set from front to back is slow
because the pins set one at a time. This is particularly true if you only apply pressure as
the pick is drawn out of the lock. Each pass of the pick will only set the frontmost pin that
is binding. Numerous passes are required to set all the pins. If the preference for setting is
not very strong (i.e., the axis of the plug holes is only slightly skewed from the plug's center
line), then you can cause additional pins to bind by applying extra torque. Basically, the
torque puts a twist in the plug that causes the front of the plug to be deflected further than
the back of the plug. With light torque, the back of the plug stays in its initial position, but
with medium to heavy torque, the front pin columns bend enough to allow the back of the
plug to rotate and thus cause the back pins to bind. With the extra torque, a single stroke
of the pick can set several pins, and the lock can be opened quickly. Too much torque causes
its own problems.

When the torque is large, the front pins and plug holes can be deformed enough to prevent
the pins from setting correctly. In particular, the first pin tends to false set low. Figure 9.2
shows how excess torque can deform the bottom of the driver pin and prevent the key pin
from reaching the sheer line. This situation can be recognized by the lack of give in the
first pin. Correctly set pins feel springy if they are pressed down slightly. A falsely set pin
lacks this springiness. The solution is to press down hard on the first pin. You may want to
reduce the torque slightly, but if you reduce torque too much then other pins will unset as
the first pin is being depressed.

It is also possible to deform the top of the key pin. The key pin is scissored between the
plug and the hull and stays fixed. When this happens, the pin is said to be false set high.

===Loose Plug===
The plug is held into the hull by being wider at the front and by having a cam on the back
that is bigger than the hole drilled into the hull. If the cam is not properly installed, the
plug can move in and out of the lock slightly. On the outward stroke of the pick, the plug
will move forward, and if you apply pressure on the inward stroke, the plug will be pushed
back.

The problem with a loose plug is that the driver pins tend to set on the back of the plug
holes rather than on the sides of the holes. When you push the plug in, the drivers will
unset. You can use this defect to your advantage by only applying pressure on the outward
or inward stroke of the pick. Alternatively, you can use your finger or torque wrench to
prevent the plug from moving forward.

Figure 9.2: Driver pin false set by elastic deformation

===Pin Diameter===
When the pair of pins in a particular column have different diameters, that column will react
strangely to the pressure of the pick.

The top half of Figure 9.3 shows a pin column with a driver pin that has a larger diameter
than the key pin. As the pins are lifted, the picking pressure is resisted by the binding friction
and the spring force. Once the driver clears the sheer line, the plug rotates (until some other
pin binds) and the only resistance to motion is the spring force. If the key pin is small enough
and the plug did not rotate very far, the key pin can enter the hull without colliding with
the edge of the hull. Some other pin is binding, so again the only resistance to motion is the
spring force. This relationship is graphed in the bottom half of the Figure. Basically, the
pins feel normal at first, but then the lock clicks and the pin becomes springy. The narrow
key pin can be pushed all the way into the hull without loosing its springiness, but when the
picking pressure is released, the key pin will fall back to its initial position while the large
driver catches on the edge of the plug hole.

The problem with a large driver pin is that the key pin tends to get stuck in the hull
when some other pin sets. Imagine that a neighboring pin sets and the plug rotates enough
to bind the narrow key pin. If the pick was pressing down on the narrow key pin at the same
time as it was pressing down on the pin that set, then the narrow key pin will be in the hull
and it will get stuck there when the plug rotates.

The behavior of a large key pin is left as an exercise for the reader.

===Beveled Holes and Rounded pins===
Some lock manufacturers (e.g., Yale) bevel the edges of the plug holes and/or round off
the ends of the key pins. This tends to reduce the wear on the lock and it can both help
and hinder lock picking. You can recognize a lock with these features by the large give in
set pins. See Figure 9.4. That is, the distance between the height at which the driver pin
catches on the edge of the plug hole and the height at which the key pin hits the hull is larger
(sometimes as large as a sixteenth of an inch) when the plug holes are beveled or the pins
are rounded. While the key pin is moving between those two heights, the only resistance to
motion will be the force of the spring. There won't be any binding friction. This corresponds
to the dip in the force graph shown in Figure 5.5.

A lock with beveled plug holes requires more scrubbing to open than a lock without
beveled holes because the driver pins set on the bevel instead of setting on the top of the
plug. The plug will not turn if one of the drivers is caught on a bevel. The key pin must
be scrubbed again to push the driver pin up and off the bevel. The left driver pin in Figure
9.6a is set. The driver is resting on the bevel, and the bottom plate has moved enough to
allow the right driver to bind. Figure 9.6b shows what happens after the right driver pin
sets. The bottom plate slides further to the right and now the left driver pin is scissored
between the bevel and the top plate. It is caught on the bevel. To open the lock, the left
driver pin must be pushed up above the bevel. Once that driver is free, the bottom plate
can slide and the right driver may bind on its bevel.

Figure 9.3: Driver pin wider than key pin

Figure 9.4: Beveled plug holes and rounded key pins

If you encounter a lock with beveled plug holes, and all the pins appear to be set but the
lock is not opening, you should reduce torque and continue scrubbing over the pins. The
reduced torque will make it easier to push the drivers off the bevels. If pins unset when you
reduce the torque, try increasing the torque and the picking pressure. The problem with
increasing the force is that you may jam some key pins into the hull.

===Mushroom Driver Pins===
A general trick that lock makers use to make picking harder is to modify the shape of
the driver pin. The most popular shapes are mushroom, spool and serrated, see Figure
9.7. The purpose of these shapes is to cause the pins to false set low. These drivers stop a
picking technique called vibration picking (see section 9.12), but they only slightly complicate
scrubbing and one-pin-at-a-time picking (see chapter 4).

Figure 9.5: (a) Driver sets on bevel

Figure 9.6: (b) Driver jams on bevel

If you pick a lock and the plug stops turning after a few degrees and none of the pins
can be pushed up any further, then you known that the lock has modified drivers. Basically,
the lip of the driver has caught at the sheer line. See the bottom of Figure 9.7. Mushroom
and spool drivers are often found in Russwin locks, and locks that have several spacers for
master keying.

You can identify the positions with mushroom drivers by applying a light torque and
pushing up on each pin. The pins with mushroom drivers will exhibit a tendency to bring
the plug back to the fully locked position. By pushing the key pin up you are pushing the
flat top of the key pin against the tilted bottom of the mushroom driver. This causes the
driver to straighten up which in turn causes the plug to unrotate. You can use this motion
to identify the columns that have mushroom drivers. Push those pins up to sheer line; even
if you lose some of the other pins in the process they will be easier to re-pick than the pins
with mushroom drivers. Eventually all the pins will be correctly set at the sheer line.

One way to identify all the positions with mushroom drivers is to use the flat of your pick
to push all the pins up about halfway. This should put most of the drivers in their cockable
position and you can feel for them.

To pick a lock with modified drivers, use a lighter torque and heavier pressure. You want
to error on the side of pushing the key pins too far into the hull. In fact, another way to
pick these locks is to use the flat side of your pick to push the pins up all the way, and apply
very heavy torque to hold them there. Use a scrubbing action to vibrate the key pins while
you slowly reduce the torque. Reducing the torque reduces the binding friction on the pins.
The vibration and spring force cause the key pins to slide down to the sheer line.

The key to picking locks with modified drivers is recognizing incorrectly set pins. A
mushroom driver set on its lip will not have the springy give of a correctly set driver.
Practice recognizing the difference.

===Master Keys===
Many applications require keys that open only a single lock and keys that open a group
of locks. The keys that open a single lock are called ''change keys'' and the keys that open
multiple locks are called ''master keys''. To allow both the change key and the master key to
open the same lock, a locksmith adds an extra pin called a ''spacer'' to some of the pin columns.
See Figure 9.8. The effect of the spacer is to create two gaps in the pin column that could
be lined up with the sheer line. Usually the change key aligns the top of the spacer with the
sheer line, and the master key aligns the bottom of the spacer with the sheer line (the idea
is to prevent people from filing down a change key to get a master key). In either case the
plug is free to rotate.

In general, spacers make a lock easier to pick. They increase the number of opportunities
to set each pin, and they make it more likely that the lock can opened by setting the all the
pins at about the same height. In most cases only two or three positions will have spacers.
You can recognize a position with a spacer by the two clicks you feel when the pin is pushed
down. If the spacer has a smaller diameter than the driver and key pins, then you will feel a
wide springy region because the spacer will not bind as it passes through the sheer line. It is

Figure 9.7: Mushroom, spool, and serrated driver pins

Figure 9.8: Spacer pins for master keying

more common for the spacer to be larger than the driver pin. You can recognize this by an
increase in friction when the spacer passes through the sheer line. Since the spacer is larger
than the driver pin, it will also catch better on the plug. If you push the spacer further into
the hull, you will feel a strong click when the bottom of the spacer clears the sheer line.
Thin spacers can cause serious problems. If you apply heavy torque and the plug has
beveled holes, the spacer can twist and jam at the sheer line. It is also possible for the spacer
to fall into the keyway if the plug is rotated 180 degrees. See section 9.11 for the solution to
this problem.

===Driver or Spacer Enters Keyway===
Figure 9.9: Spacer or driver can enter keyway

Figure 9.9 shows how a spacer or driver pin can enter the keyway when the plug is rotated
180 degrees. You can prevent this by placing the flat side of your pick in the bottom of the
keyway before you turn the plug too far. If a spacer or driver does enter the keyway and
prevent you from turning the plug, use the flat side of you pick to push the spacer back into
the hull. You may need to use the torque wrench to relieve any sheer force that is binding
the spacer or driver. If that doesn't work try raking over the drivers with the pointed side
of your pick. If a spacer falls into the keyway completely, the only option is to remove it. A
hook shaped piece of spring steel works well for this, though a bent paperclip will work just
as well unless the spacer becomes wedged.

9.12 Vibration Picking
Vibration picking works by creating a large gap between the key and driver pins. The
underlying principle is familiar to anyone who has played pool. When the queue ball strikes
another ball squarely, the queue ball stops and the other ball heads off with the same speed
and direction as the queue ball. Now imagine a device that kicks the tips of all the key pins.
The key pins would transfer their momentum to the driver pins which would fly up into the
hull. If you are applying a light torque when this happens, the plug will rotate when all the
drivers are above the sheer line.

===Disk Tumblers===
The inexpensive locks found on desks use metal disks instead of pins. Figure 9.10 shows the
basic workings of these locks. The disks have the same outline but differ in the placement
of the rectangular cut.

These locks are easy to pick with the right tools. Because the disks are placed close
together a half-round pick works better than a half-diamond pick (see Figure A.1). You may
also need a torque wrench with a narrower head. Use moderate to heavy torque.

Figure 9.10: Workings of a disk tumbler lock

==Final Remarks==
Lock picking is a craft, not a science. This document presents the knowledge and skills that
are essential to lock picking, but more importantly it provides you with models and exercises
that will help you study locks on your own. To excel at lock picking, you must practice and
develop a style which fits you personally. Remember that the best technique is the one that
works best for you.

==Appendix A. Tools==
This appendix describes the design and construction of lock picking tools.

===Pick Shapes===
Picks come in several shapes and sizes. Figure A.1 shows the most common shapes. The
handle and tang of a pick are the same for all picks. The handle must be comfortable and
the tang must be thin enough to avoid bumping pins unnecessarily. If the tang is too thin,
then it will act like a spring and you will loose the feel of the tip interacting with the pins.
The shape of the tip determines how easily the pick passes over the pins and what kind of
feedback you get from each pin.

The design of a tip is a compromise between ease of insertion, ease of withdrawal and feel
of the interaction. The half diamond tip with shallow angles is easy to insert and remove,
so you can apply pressure when the pick is moving in either direction. It can quickly pick a
lock that has little variation in the lengths of the key pins. If the lock requires a key that
has a deep cut between two shallow cuts, the pick may not be able to push the middle pin
down far enough. The half diamond pick with steep angles could deal with such a lock, and
in general steep angles give you better feedback about the pins. Unfortunately, the steep
angles make it harder to move the pick in the lock. A tip that has a shallow front angle and
a steep back angle works well for Yale locks.

The half round tip works well in disk tumbler locks. See section 9.13. The full diamond
and full round tips are useful for locks that have pins at the top and bottom of the keyway.

The rake tip is designed for picking pins one by one. It can also be used to rake over
the pins, but the pressure can only be applied as the pick is withdrawn. The rake tip allows
you to carefully feel each pin and apply varying amounts of pressure. Some rake tips are flat
or dented on the top to makes it easier to align the pick on the pin. The primary benefit
of picking pins one at a time is that you avoid scratching the pins. Scrubbing scratches the
tips of the pins and the keyway, and it spreads metal dust throughout the lock. If you want
to avoid leaving traces, you must avoid scrubbing.

The snake tip can be used for scrubbing or picking. When scrubbing, the multiple bumps
generate more action than a regular pick. The snake tip is particularly good at opening five
pin household locks. When a snake tip is used for picking, it can set two or three pins at
once. Basically, the snake pick acts like a segment of a key which can be adjusted by lifting
and lowering the tip, by tilting it back and forth, and by using either to top or bottom of
the tip. You should use moderate to heavy torque with a snake pick to allow several pins to
bind at the same time. This style of picking is faster than using a rake and it leaves as little
evidence.

===Street cleaner bristles===
The spring steel bristles used on street cleaners make excellent tools for lock picking. The
bristles have the right thickness and width, and they are easy to grind into the desired shape.
The resulting tools are springy and strong. Section A.3 describes how to make tools that
are less springy.

The first step in making tools is to sand off any rust on the bristles. Course grit sand
paper works fine as does a steel wool cleaning pad (not copper wool). If the edges or tip of
the bristle are worn down, use a file to make them square.

A torque wrench has a head and a handle as shown in figure A.2. The head is usually
1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long and the handle varies from 2 to 4 inches long. The head and the
handle are separated by a bend that is about 80 degrees. The head must be long enough
to reach over any protrusions (such as a grip-proof collar) and firmly engage the plug. A
long handle allows delicate control over the torque, but if it is too long, it will bump against
the doorframe. The handle, head and bend angle can be made quite small if you want to
make tools that are easy to conceal (e.g., in a pen, flashlight, or belt buckle). Some torque
wrenches have a 90 degree twist in the handle. The twist makes it easy to control the torque
by controlling how far the handle has been deflected from its rest position. The handle acts
as a spring which sets the torque. The disadvantage of this method of setting the torque is
that you get less feedback about the rotation of the plug. To pick difficult locks you will
need to learn how to apply a steady torque via a stiff handled torque wrench.

The width of the head of a torque wrench determines how well it will fit the keyway.
Locks with narrow keyways (e.g., desk locks) need torque wrenches with narrow heads.
Before bending the bristle, file the head to the desired width. A general purpose wrench can
be made by narrowing the tip (about 1/4 inch) of the head. The tip fits small keyways while
the rest of the head is wide enough to grab a normal keyway.

The hard part of making a torque wrench is bending the bristle without cracking it. To
make the 90 degree handle twist, clamp the head of the bristle (about one inch) in a vise
and use pliers to grasp the bristle about 3/8 of an inch above the vise. You can use another
pair of pliers instead of a vise. Apply a 45 degree twist. Try to keep the axis of the twist
lined up with the axis of the bristle. Now move the pliers back another 3/8 inch and apply
the remaining 45 degrees. You will need to twist the bristle more than 90 degrees in order
to set a permanent 90 degree twist.

Figure A.1: Selection of pick shapes

To make the 80 degree head bend, lift the bristle out of the vise by about 1/4 inch (so
3/4 inch is still in the vise). Place the shank of a screw driver against the bristle and bend
the spring steel around it about 90 degrees. This should set a permanent 80 degree bend in
the metal. Try to keep the axis of the bend perpendicular to the handle. The screwdriver
shank ensures that the radius of curvature will not be too small. Any rounded object will
work (e.g., drill bit, needle nose pliers, or a pen cap). If you have trouble with this method,
try grasping the bristle with two pliers separated by about 1/2 inch and bend. This method
produces a gentle curve that won't break the bristle.

A grinding wheel will greatly speed the job of making a pick. It takes a bit of practice
to learn how make smooth cuts with a grinding wheel, but it takes less time to practice and
make two or three picks than it does to hand file a single pick. The first step is to cut the
front angle of the pick. Use the front of the wheel to do this. Hold the bristle at 45 degrees
to the wheel and move the bristle side to side as you grind away the metal. Grind slowly
to avoid overheating the metal, which makes it brittle. If the metal changes color (to dark
blue), you have overheated it, and you should grind away the colored portion. Next, cut
the back angle of the tip using the corner of the wheel. Usually one corner is sharper than
the other, and you should use that one. Hold the pick at the desired angle and slowly push
it into the corner of the wheel. The side of the stone should cut the back angle. Be sure
that the tip of the pick is supported. If the grinding wheel stage is not close enough to the
wheel to support the tip, use needle nose pliers to hold the tip. The cut should should pass
though about 2/3 of the width of the bristle. If the tip came out well, continue. Otherwise
break it off and try again. You can break the bristle by clamping it into a vise and bending
it sharply.

The corner of the wheel is also used to grind the tang of the pick. Put a scratch mark
to indicate how far back the tang should go. The tang should be long enough to allow the
tip to pass over the back pin of a seven pin lock. Cut the tang by making several smooth
passes over the corner. Each pass starts at the tip and moves to the scratch mark. Try to
remove less than a 1/16th of an inch of metal with each pass. I use two fingers to hold the
bristle on the stage at the proper angle while my other hand pushes the handle of the pick
to move the tang along the corner. Use whatever technique works best for you.

Use a hand file to finish the pick. It should feel smooth if you run a finger nail over it.
Any roughness will add noise to the feedback you want to get from the lock.

The outer sheath of phone cable can be used as a handle for the pick. Remove three or
four of the wires from a length of cable and push it over the pick. If the sheath won't stay
in place, you can put some epoxy on the handle before pushing the sheath over it.

===Bicycle spokes===
An alternative to making tools out of street cleaner bristles is to make them out of nails and
bicycle spokes. These materials are easily accessible and when they are heat treated, they
will be stronger than tools made from bristles.

Figure A.2: Torque wrenches

A strong torque wrench can be constructed from an 8-penny nail (about .1 inch diameter).
First heat up the point with a propane torch until it glows red, slowly remove it from the
flame, and let it air cool; this softens it. The burner of a gas stove can be used instead of
a torch. Grind it down into the shape of a skinny screwdriver blade and bend it to about
80 degrees. The bend should be less than a right angle because some lock faces are recessed
behind a plate (called an ''escutcheon'') and you want the head of the wrench to be able to
reach about half an inch into the plug. Temper (harden) the torque wrench by heating to
bright orange and dunking it into ice water. You will wind up with a virtually indestructible
bent screwdriver that will last for years under brutal use.

Bicycle spokes make excellent picks. Bend one to the shape you want and file the sides of
the business end flat such that it's strong in the vertical and flexy in the horizontal direction.
Try a right-angle hunk about an inch long for a handle. For smaller picks, which you need
for those really tiny keyways, find any large-diameter spring and unbend it. If you're careful
you don't have to play any metallurgical games.

===Brick Strap===
For perfectly serviceable key blanks that you can't otherwise find at the store, use the metal
strap they wrap around bricks for shipping. It's wonderfully handy stuff for just about
anything you want to manufacture. To get around side wards in the keyway, you can bend
the strap lengthwise by clamping it in a vice and tapping on the protruding part to bend
the piece to the required angle.

Brick strap is very hard. It can ruin a grinding wheel or key cutting machine. A hand
file is the recommended tool for milling brick strap.

==Appendix B. Legal Issues==
Contrary to widespread myth, it is not a felony to possess lockpicks. Each state has its own
laws with respect to such burglarious instruments. Here is the Massachusetts version quoted
in entirety from the massachusetts general code:

:::; Chapter 266 (crimes against property)
::; Section 49. Burglarious instruments; making; possession; use.
: Whoever makes or mends, or begins to make or mend, or knowingly has in
: his possession, an engine, machine, tool or implement adapted and designed for
: cutting through, forcing or breaking open a building, room, vault, safe or other
: depository, '''IN ORDER TO STEAL THEREFROM''' money or other property, or
: to commit any other crime, knowing the same to be adapted and designed for
: the purpose aforesaid, '''WITH INTENT TO USE OR EMPLOY OR ALLOW'''
: the same to be used or employed for such purpose, or whoever knowingly has in
: his possession a master key designed to fit more than one motor vehicle, '''WITH'''
: '''INTENT, TO USE OR EMPLOY THE SAME''' to steal a motor vehicle or other
: property therefrom, shall be punished by imprisonment in the state prison for
: not more than ten years or by a fine of not more than one thousand dollars and
: imprisonment in jail for not more than two and one half years.

Emphasis added.

In other words, mere possession means nothing. If they stop you for speeding or some-
thing, and find a pick set, they can't do much. On the other hand, if they catch you picking
the lock on a Monec machine they get to draw and quarter you.

States with similar wording include ME, NH, NY. One place that DOES NOT have
similar wording, and does make possession illegal, is Washington, DC. These are the only
other places I have checked. I would imagine that most states are similar to Massachusetts,
but I would not bet anything substantial (say, more than a slice of pizza) on it.

It may be a good idea to carry around a xeroxed copy of the appropriate page from your
state's criminal code.

MIT Guide to Lock Picking

2010-04-04T04:23:44Z

Raccoon: Created page: MIT Guide to Lock Picking. Copied from MITLockGuide.pdf [MD5: 2966b8658fd57ade59c97358edc73f2f]

Template:CompactTOC8/doc

2010-04-04T02:33:02Z

Raccoon:

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<includeonly>

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Template:CompactTOC8/doc

2010-04-04T02:22:45Z

Raccoon: Copied from wikipedia.org

{{Documentation subpage}}

{{Intricate template}}
__TOC__
==Purpose==
This is a Table-of-Contents replacement for alphabetical lists:
:* The compact format goes sideways: A B C D E F G H I J K L ....
:* The centering or numbers are optional: center=yes, num=yes.
:* The "Contents" heading can go on top (default) or the side (side=yes).
:* Letter ranges can be set (''see below:'' [[#Letters]]): A B C-F G H-K L...
:* Some letters can be omitted, instead of 26 separate letters.
:* Other headers can be listed in the TOC (''see below:'' [[#Listing custom-headers|Listing custom-headers]]).
::* Set upper headers before "ABCDEF" by pre1, pre2, ... pre8.
::* Set lower headers after "ABCDEF" by custom1, custom2, ... custom8.
:* Conceal subheader link-text as "pre1name" over "pre1link" and "custom1name" over "custom1link" etc.
:* Other options include: top=yes, seealso=yes, refs=yes, extlinks=yes, etc.
The template has all features of [[Template:CompactTOC7]], plus some from [[Template:CompactTOC2]], such as optional "Top" "0-9" sections, ''and'' allows selecting other sections.

==Usage==

'''Typical''':

<code><nowiki>{{</nowiki>'''CompactTOC8'''|symnum=yes<nowiki>}}</nowiki></code>

'''For alphabetical only''' (no number or symbol entries):

<code><nowiki>{{</nowiki>'''CompactTOC8'''<nowiki>}}</nowiki></code>

'''For maximum number of features and centered placement''' (leave off a parameter or change it to blank or "no" to disable a feature)

<nowiki>{{</nowiki>'''CompactTOC8'''
|name=
|side=yes
|center=yes
|right=
|align=center
|nobreak=yes
|top=yes
|num=yes
|sym=yes
|symnum=
|pre1=
|pre1name=
|pre1link=
...
|pre8=
|pre8name=
|pre8link=
|prebreak= 
|custom1=
|custom1name=
|custom1link=
...
|custom8=
|custom8name=
|custom8link=
|seealso=yes
|notesfirst=
|refs=yes
|notes=yes
|extlinks=yes
|a=
...
|z=
}}</code>

===Parameters===
*<code>name=</code> — change the heading to an alternative name instead of "Contents", or hide it completely by entering <code>name=no</code>
*<code>side=yes</code> — put the "Contents" heading on the left side with a colon, instead of the top without one
*<code>center=yes</code> — center to ToC in the horizontal middle of the page, instead of floated left
*<code>right=yes</code> — align the ToC horizontally to the right of the page (may require <code><nowiki> </nowiki></code> after it, depending on page layout), instead of floated left (this parameter is mutually exclusive with the "center" option above, and should be used sparingly and with good reason)
*<code>align=</code> — sets the alignment of the ''links'' inside the table; default is left; use <code>center</code>, <code>right</code> or <code>left</code>
*<code>nobreak=yes</code> — no linebreak between the A-B-C-etc. stuff and the See also/References/etc. stuff (note: does not affect the heading; use <code>side=</code> for that)
*<code>top=yes</code> — enable the "Top" link; this is only useful if this copy of the ToC is a secondary ToC not at the top of the page, e.g. in the middle of a long glossary. (Every rendered page has a hidden <code><nowiki><a name="top" id="top"></a></nowiki></code> above the sitenotice which makes this link work without having to do anything but enable it in the template.)
*<code>sym=yes</code> — enable the "!$@" link for symbolic entries section
*<code>num=yes</code> — enable the "0–9" link for numeric entries section (create a heading of <code><nowiki>==0&ndash;9==</nowiki></code> for the link to work)
*<code>symnum=yes</code> — enable the "!–9" link for combined symbolic and numeric entries section (create a heading of <code><nowiki>==!&ndash;9==</nowiki></code> for the link to work)

*<code>sep=&middot;</code> — set the separator-text between word-headers (not between "ABCDEF") to "·"; could also be a vertical-bar or <code>&bull;</code> (•), etc.

*<code>custom1</code> to <code>custom8</code> — add up to 8 extra "custom" sections after the "ABCDEF" list. These appear as <nowiki>[[#custom1|custom1]]</nowiki>.
*<code>custom1name</code> to <code>custom8name</code> — modifies the way the custom section headers appear: <nowiki>[[#custom1|custom1name]]</nowiki>
*<code>custom1link</code> to <code>custom8link</code> — modifies the targets of the custom sections: <nowiki>[[custom1link|custom1]]</nowiki>. Use this only for linking to another page. ''Use sparingly!'' About the only legitimate use for this is connecting the sub-pages of multi-page articles, like long lists that have been broken up. Do not repurpose the ToC as a makeshift navbox.

*<code>pre1</code> to <code>pre8</code> — list up to 8 extra section headers ''before'' (pre-list) the "ABCDEF" list. These appear as <nowiki>[[#pre1|pre1]]</nowiki>.
*<code>pre1name</code> to <code>pre8name</code> — modifies the way the pre-list section headers appear: <nowiki>[[#pre1|pre1name]]</nowiki>
*<code>pre1link</code> to <code>pre8link</code> — modifies the targets of the pre-list headers: <nowiki>[[pre1link|pre1]]</nowiki>.
*<code>prebreak= </code> — set break-line after all pre-list headers; can include text to introduce "ABCDEF".

*<code>seealso=yes</code> — enable link to the "See also" section
*<code>refs=yes</code> — enable link to the "References" section (observe that it is plural)
*<code>notes=yes</code> — enable link to the "Notes" section (observe that it is plural)
*<code>notesfirst=yes</code> — enable link to the "Notes" section, but placed before "References"; ''do not use with <code>notes</code>'' (and do observe that it is plural)
*<code>extlinks=yes</code> — enable link to the "External links" section
*<code>a=</code> through <code>z=</code> — individually disable particular letters that have no entries. ''Use with caution'' and check regularly to make sure that new entries do not require the removal of these parameters. Can also be used to create range links, e.g. "X-Z". ''(See [[#Letters]] below for more detailed documentation of this feature.)''

==Letters==
Any letter can be omitted (i.e. when it has no entries in the list) by specifying it as a ''lower-case'' blank parameter: 
{{tlx|CompactTOC8|side=yes|j=|q=}}
{| style="margin-left:3.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|side=yes|j=|q=}}
|}
Or it can be replaced with an unlinked letter by using that letter ('''upper-case'''):
{{tlx|CompactTOC8|side=yes|j=J|q=Q}}
{| style="margin-left:3.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|side=yes|j=J|q=Q}}
|}
''Note:'' It is often better to create an empty placeholder span (e.g. <code><nowiki></nowiki></code> where the letter's heading would be in the page if it existed, since in most cases it is quite possible that it will come to exist in the future. Using the span-id avoids confusing new users who might not realize the TOC-template has skipped some letters.

The letter-assignment feature can also be used to create range links:

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|side=yes|x=<nowiki>[[#X-Z|X-Z]]</nowiki>|y=|z=}}
{| style="margin-left:3.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|side=yes|x=[[#X-Z|X-Z]]|y=|z=}}
|}
The feature can also be used (very tediously) for linking to sub-articles (e.g., for [[Wikipedia:Naming conventions (long lists)|long lists]] that have been split into multiple pages):

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|name=[[Articlename]]|side=yes|n=<nowiki>[[</nowiki><var>Articlename</var> (N–Z)#N|N<nowiki>]]</nowiki>|o=<nowiki>[[</nowiki><var>Articlename</var> (N–Z)#O|O<nowiki>]]</nowiki>|...|z=<nowiki>[[</nowiki><var>Articlename</var> (N–Z)#Z|Z<nowiki>]]</nowiki>}}

{| style="margin-left:3.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|name=[[Articlename]]|side=yes|n=[[Article (N–Z)#N|N]]|o=[[Articlename (N–Z)#O|O]]|p=[[Articlename (N–Z)#P|P]]|q=[[Articlename (N–Z)#Q|Q]]|r=[[Articlename (N–Z)#R|R]]|s=[[Articlename (N–Z)#S|S]]|t=[[Articlename (N–Z)#T|T]]|u=[[Articlename (N–Z)#U|U]]|v=[[Articlename (N–Z)#V|V]]|w=[[Articlename (N–Z)#W|W]]|x=[[Articlename (N–Z)#X|X]]|y=[[Articlename (N–Z)#Y|Y]]|z=[[Articlename (N–Z)#Z|Z]]}}
|}

Or, as another example:

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|side=yes|n=<nowiki>[[</nowiki><var>Articlename</var> (N–Z)|&nbsp;N–Z (next page)<nowiki>]]</nowiki>|o=|p=|...|z=}}

{| style="margin-left:3.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|side=yes|n=[[Articlename (N–Z)| N–Z (next page)]]|o=|p=|q=|r=|s=|t=|u=|v=|w=|x=|y=|z=}}
|}

==Listing custom-headers==
The optional parameters pre1...pre8 and custom1...custom8 allow listing up to 16 other section-headers in the TOC, before or after, the "ABCDEF" list:

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|name=no|center=yes|top=yes|seealso=yes|notes=yes|custom1=New section|custom2=Additional section}}
{{CompactTOC8|name=no|center=yes|top=yes|seealso=yes|notes=yes|custom1=New section|custom2=Additional section}}

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|name=no|center=yes|top=yes|seealso=yes|notes=yes|custom1=New section|custom1name=Custom section name|custom2=Outside page|custom2link=Main Page}}
{{CompactTOC8|name=no|center=yes|top=yes|seealso=yes|notes=yes|custom1=New section|custom1name=Custom section name|custom2=Outside page|custom2link=Main Page}}

 Headers can be listed before & after "ABCDEF" using pre1 & custom1:
: {{tlx|CompactTOC8|center=yes|align=center|top=yes|seealso=yes |pre1=Scope of list|pre2=Abbreviations used|prebreak= |custom1=Popular entries|custom2=Excluded entries|notes=yes}}
{{CompactTOC8|center=yes|align=center|top=yes|seealso=yes|pre1=Scope of list|pre2=Abbreviations used|prebreak= |custom1=Popular entries|custom2=Excluded entries|notes=yes}}

 The separator text can be set to a mid-dot by "sep=&middot;" :
: {{tlx|CompactTOC8|center=yes|align=center|top=yes|seealso=yes |pre1=Scope of list|pre2=Abbreviations used|prebreak= |custom1=Popular entries|custom2=Excluded entries|sep='''<nowiki>'''&middot;'''</nowiki>'''}}
{{CompactTOC8|center=yes|align=center|top=yes|seealso=yes|pre1=Scope of list|pre2=Abbreviations used|prebreak= |custom1=Popular entries|custom2=Excluded entries|notes=yes|sep='''·'''}}

====Shorthand====
* <code>short1</code> can be used as the very first parameter (before <code>name=</code>) for shortening a common usage:

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|short1}}

{{CompactTOC8|short1}}

It replaces <nowiki>{{CompactTOC8|side=yes|center=yes|nobreak=yes|refs=yes}}</nowiki>

==Examples==
{{tlx|CompactTOC8|top=yes}} 
{| style="margin-left:2.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|top=yes}}
|}

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|side=yes|sym=yes|num=yes|refs=yes|seealso=yes|custom1=Other}}
{| style="margin-left:2.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|side=yes|sym=yes|num=yes|refs=yes|custom1=Other}}
|}

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|name=Directory|top=no|refs=yes|notes=yes|extlinks=yes}}
{| style="margin-left:2.0em"
|{{CompactTOC8|name=Directory|top=no|refs=yes|notes=yes|extlinks=yes}}
|}

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|name=no|side=yes|right=yes|symnum=yes|seealso=yes}}
{{CompactTOC8|name=no|side=yes|right=yes|symnum=yes|seealso=yes}} 

{{tlx|CompactTOC8|short1|num=yes|sym=yes|seealso=yes|notesfirst=yes|extlinks=yes}}
{{CompactTOC8|short1|num=yes|sym=yes|seealso=yes|notesfirst=yes|extlinks=yes}}

<includeonly>
[[Category:Exclude in print]]
[[Category:Wikipedia table of contents templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]
[[Category:List templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]

[[ca:Template:Índex]]
[[de:Vorlage:TOC]]
[[es:Plantilla:TOC]]
[[eo:Ŝablono:Indekso]]
[[id:Templat:CompactTOC8]]
[[it:Template:Indice]]
[[ja:template:TOC]]
[[pt:Predefinição:Peqind]]
[[sl:Predloga:CompactTOC3]]
[[sv:Mall:Alfabetisk]]
[[nl:Sjabloon:CompactTOC8]]
</includeonly>

Template:TOC

2010-04-04T02:21:51Z

Raccoon: Redirected page to Template:CompactTOC8

#REDIRECT [[Template:CompactTOC8]]

Template:CompactTOC8

2010-04-04T02:16:50Z

Raccoon: Copied template from wikipedia.org. Template:TOC will redirect here.

{| id="toc" class="toc" summary="Contents" {{

#ifeq:{{{center|{{#ifeq:{{{1|}}}|short1|yes|}}}}}|yes|align="center"|}}{{#ifeq:{{{right|}}}|yes|align="right"|}}
{{ 

#ifeq:{{{name|}}}|no||! {{{name|{{MediaWiki:Toc}}}}}{{#ifeq:{{{side|{{#ifeq:{{{1|}}}|short1|yes|}}}}}|yes|:|}}
{{#ifeq:{{{side|{{#ifeq:{{{1|}}}|short1|yes|}}}}}|yes|{{!}}|{{!}}-}}}}
|{{#ifeq:{{{nobreak|{{#ifeq:{{{1|}}}|short1|yes|}}}}}|yes||<div style="text-align:{{{align|left}}};">}}{{

#ifeq:{{{top|}}}|yes|[[#top{{!}}Top]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{

#if:{{{pre1|{{{preSec1|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre1link|{{{preSec1link|#{{{pre1|{{{preSec1|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre1name|{{{preSec1name|{{{pre1|{{{preSec1|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{
#if:{{{pre2|{{{preSec2|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre2link|{{{preSec2link|#{{{pre2|{{{preSec2|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre2name|{{{preSec2name|{{{pre2|{{{preSec2|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{
#if:{{{pre3|{{{preSec3|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre3link|{{{preSec3link|#{{{pre3|{{{preSec3|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre3name|{{{preSec3name|{{{pre3|{{{preSec3|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{
#if:{{{pre4|{{{preSec4|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre4link|{{{preSec4link|#{{{pre4|{{{preSec4|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre4name|{{{preSec4name|{{{pre4|{{{preSec4|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{
#if:{{{pre5|{{{preSec5|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre5link|{{{preSec5link|#{{{pre5|{{{preSec5|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre5name|{{{preSec5name|{{{pre5|{{{preSec5|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{
#if:{{{pre6|{{{preSec6|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre6link|{{{preSec6link|#{{{pre6|{{{preSec6|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre6name|{{{preSec6name|{{{pre6|{{{preSec6|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{
#if:{{{pre7|{{{preSec7|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre7link|{{{preSec7link|#{{{pre7|{{{preSec7|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre7name|{{{preSec7name|{{{pre7|{{{preSec7|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{
#if:{{{pre8|{{{preSec8|}}}}}}|[[{{{pre8link|{{{preSec8link|#{{{pre8|{{{preSec8|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{pre8name|{{{preSec8name|{{{pre8|{{{preSec8|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] {{{sep| }}}|}} {{

#if:{{{prebreak|}}}|{{{prebreak}}}}} {{

#ifeq:{{{sym|}}}|yes|[[#!$@|!$@]]|}} {{

#ifeq:{{{num|}}}|yes|[[#0–9|0–9]]|}} {{#ifeq:{{{symnum|}}}|yes|[[#!–9|!–9]]|

}} {{{a|[[#A|A]]}}} {{{b|[[#B|B]]}}} {{{c|[[#C|C]]}}} {{{d|[[#D|D]]}}} {{{e|[[#E|E]]}}} {{{f|[[#F|F]]}}} {{{g|[[#G|G]]}}} {{{h|[[#H|H]]}}} {{{i|[[#I|I]]}}} {{{j|[[#J|J]]}}} {{{k|[[#K|K]]}}} {{{l|[[#L|L]]}}} {{{m|[[#M|M]]}}} {{{n|[[#N|N]]}}} {{{o|[[#O|O]]}}} {{{p|[[#P|P]]}}} {{{q|[[#Q|Q]]}}} {{{r|[[#R|R]]}}} {{{s|[[#S|S]]}}} {{{t|[[#T|T]]}}} {{{u|[[#U|U]]}}} {{{v|[[#V|V]]}}} {{{w|[[#W|W]]}}} {{{x|[[#X|X]]}}} {{{y|[[#Y|Y]]}}} {{{z|[[#Z|Z]]}}} {{#ifeq:{{{nobreak|{{#ifeq:{{{1}}}|short1|yes|}}}}}|yes| | }}{{

#if:{{{custom1|{{{Sec1|}}}}}}|[[{{{custom1link|{{{Sec1link|#{{{custom1|{{{Sec1|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom1name|{{{Sec1name|{{{custom1|{{{Sec1|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{

#if:{{{custom2|{{{Sec2|}}}}}}|{{{sep| }}} [[{{{custom2link|{{{Sec2link|#{{{custom2|{{{Sec2|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom2name|{{{Sec2name|{{{custom2|{{{Sec2|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{
#if:{{{custom3|{{{Sec3|}}}}}}|{{{sep| }}} [[{{{custom3link|{{{Sec3link|#{{{custom3|{{{Sec3|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom3name|{{{Sec3name|{{{custom3|{{{Sec3|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{
#if:{{{custom4|{{{Sec4|}}}}}}|{{{sep| }}} [[{{{custom4link|{{{Sec4link|#{{{custom4|{{{Sec4|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom4name|{{{Sec4name|{{{custom4|{{{Sec4|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{
#if:{{{custom5|{{{Sec5|}}}}}}|{{{sep| }}} [[{{{custom5link|{{{Sec5link|#{{{custom5|{{{Sec5|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom5name|{{{Sec5name|{{{custom5|{{{Sec5|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{
#if:{{{custom6|{{{Sec6|}}}}}}|{{{sep| }}} [[{{{custom6link|{{{Sec6link|#{{{custom6|{{{Sec6|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom6name|{{{Sec6name|{{{custom6|{{{Sec6|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{
#if:{{{custom7|{{{Sec7|}}}}}}|{{{sep| }}} [[{{{custom7link|{{{Sec7link|#{{{custom7|{{{Sec7|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom7name|{{{Sec7name|{{{custom7|{{{Sec7|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{
#if:{{{custom8|{{{Sec8|}}}}}}|{{{sep| }}} [[{{{custom8link|{{{Sec8link|#{{{custom8|{{{Sec8|}}}}}}}}}}}}{{!}}{{{custom8name|{{{Sec8name|{{{custom8|{{{Sec8|}}}}}}}}}}}}]] |}}{{

#ifeq:{{{seealso|}}}|yes|{{{sep| }}} [[#See also{{!}}See also]] |}}{{

#ifeq:{{{notesfirst|}}}|yes|{{{sep| }}} [[#Notes{{!}}Notes]] |}}{{

#ifeq:{{{refs|{{#ifeq:{{{1|}}}|short1|yes|}}}}}|yes|{{{sep| }}} [[#References{{!}}References]] |}}{{

#ifeq:{{{notes|}}}|yes|{{{sep| }}} [[#Notes{{!}}Notes]] |}}{{

#ifeq:{{{extlinks|}}}|yes|{{{sep| }}} [[#External links{{!}}External links]]|}}{{

#ifeq:{{{break|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "break" - try "nobreak=yes".
}}{{#ifeq:{{{centre|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "centre" - try "center=yes".
}}{{#ifeq:{{{Top|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "Top" - try lowercase "top=yes".
}}{{#ifeq:{{{ref|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "ref" - try "refs=yes".
}}{{#ifeq:{{{Ref|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "Ref" - try lowercase "refs=yes".
}}{{#ifeq:{{{note|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "note" - try "note'''s'''=yes".
}}{{#ifeq:{{{ext|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "ext" - try "extlinks=yes".
}}{{#ifeq:{{{extlink|x}}}|x|| 
TOC8 - Invalid parameter "extlink" - try "extlinks=yes".
}}</div>
|}__NOTOC__<noinclude>

{{documentation}}


</noinclude>

Keyless locks (residential)

2010-03-11T04:37:32Z

Raccoon: Article creation; "Keyless locks (residential)"

{{stub}}
List of ''Keyless locks'' sold for residential use.

==Residential Deadbolts (USA)==

===Schlage Keypad Deadbolt===
;Manufacturer / Brand: Schlage / Schlage
;Model: Plymouth (BE365 PLY), Camelot (BE365 CAM)
;Retail price: $138.00 <ref name="Schlage Plymouth Keypad Deadbolt (Satin Nickel) at homedepot.com">http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100608038</ref>(March 2010)

==References==
<references/>

Keyless entry

2010-03-11T03:56:59Z

Raccoon: a conventional key lock is usually included

{{stub}}
'''Keyless entry''' is a method of security that does not require a physical key to gain access to the building, property or object being locked. The most common implementations utilize a numeric code or ''[[pin code|pin]]'' for entry, but may also use [[key card]]s, RFID chips, thumb print, voice recognition, retinal scan, biometric imaging, or any combination thereof. Modern keyless locks often include an electronic component, but several purely mechanical designs do exist, and usually a conventional [[key lock]] is included to serve as a backup in the event of battery or electronic failure.

While combination locks are a form of keyless entry, they are typically excluded from this category of security if applied to padlocks, safes, vaults, or any lock where the usage of a physical key was never common to begin with. ''Keyless entry'' by tradition refers to a switch away from the use of regular keys.

Keyless entry

2010-03-11T03:44:56Z

Raccoon: Article creation; "Keyless entry"

{{stub}}
'''Keyless entry''' is a method of security that does not require a physical key to gain access to the building, property or object being locked. The most common implementations utilize a numeric code or ''[[pin code|pin]]'' for entry, but may also use [[key card]]s, RFID chips, thumb print, voice recognition, retinal scan, biometric imaging, or any combination thereof. Modern keyless locks often include an electronic component, but several purely mechanical designs do exist.

While combination locks are a form of keyless entry, they are typically excluded from this category of security if applied to padlocks, safes, vaults, or any lock where the usage of a physical key was never common to begin with. ''Keyless entry'' by tradition refers to a switch away from the use of regular keys.

Talk:Lockpicking

2008-12-15T07:49:46Z

Raccoon: First discussion. Namespaces?

Hi all. Nice to see this site up and running. Let me start by engaging the first discussion. ~ [[User:Raccoon|Raccoon]]

==Namespace Lockwiki:==
I know the site is highly experimental right now, but I would like to propose that the namespace "Lockwiki:" be dropped, and articles filed under the default namespace. To understand what I'm talking about, look at the title of this article. "Lockwiki:Lockpicking"; by putting "Lockwiki:" before the article name, it sets the article apart from the "main" set of articles. This is typically done for experimental articles or special projects, and should be omitted for normal articles such as [[Lockpicking]]. :) ~ [[User:Raccoon|Raccoon]] 00:49, 15 December 2008 (MST)